Cornwall weekender: Pier House, Charlestown

The historic harbour villages dotted along Cornwall’s southern coast each bring their own unique identity to the characterful coastline. Yet, in recent years, one of those villages has garnered celebrity status thanks to its role in over 20 films and TV series – most notably the BBC’s Poldark.

Charlestown has long attracted fans eager to ogle the harbourside spot where Verity Poldark eloped with Captain Andrew Blamey. But it’s time to forget Poldark as there’s a new star in (Charles)town.

Following a devastating blaze that ripped through the Pier House and caused major damage in 2023, the much-loved venue has been given an extensive refurb. The new interior styling sensitively reflects the inn’s heritage and location via the textures and colours of the coast. It’s a transformation that does justice to the 200-year-old building, which started life in 1794 as a boarding house with an adjoining malthouse (which processed the raw ingredients used to brew beer).

The pub sits smack bang on the edge of the harbour and enjoys an enviable waterside location, so has long been a favourite place for a pint with a view. And with refurbed guest bedrooms that are every bit as delightful as the bar and lounge areas, the Pier House is now a perfect base for a Cornish weekend packed with brews, bites and the briny blue.

St Austell Brewery HQ is only a couple of miles away from Charlestown, so divert the satnav to spend some time experiencing what goes down at the pioneering brewery before heading for check-in at the Pier House.

Booking onto a brewery tour is a fantastic way to delve into over 170 years of the family-run brewery’s history. Run by enthusiastic and knowledgeable staff, the two-hour experience takes in tales of brewers past, a peek inside the small-batch brewery where St Austell Brewery’s production team create their most innovative beers, a lesson in the art of beer making, and a tasting session which includes a large number of creations from the brewery’s core range (from flagship names like Tribute and korev to limited-edition brews such as the 13% abv Belgian beer Divine Intervention).

Following the tour, have a well-deserved sit-down in the Hicks Bar. Pick your favourite tipple from the tasting session and order it as a pint, then choose something from the menu. Catering to all tastes, there are lighter bites such as rose-harissa hummus with crispy chickpeas, ras el hanout, pistachio crumb, lemon zest, olive oil and warm pitta, or plump for a more substantial dish such as an Aberdeen Angus beef burger with Cornish blue cheese, black truffle mayo, gem lettuce, glazed bun and fries.

Before heading to Charlestown, take a moment to linger in the shop. It’s divided into two sections: a bottle shop which stocks not only a host of St Austell Brewery drinks but also wines and South West spirits. Next door is a store stuffed with merch to rep your favourite brewery, along with numerous luxury items – from candles and ceramics to blankets and biscuits – from premium makers.

A short drive down the hill will bring you to Charlestown and the harbourside Pier House. Check in with the friendly team then head upstairs to check out your room. The inn comprises a choice of classic cabins, classic rooms, harbour-view rooms and superior sea-view rooms. All are extremely well-appointed and the epitome of comfort with Dryrobes and a canvas bag for beach walks, a Nespresso machine and complimentary korevs in the fridge. For those who want to listen to waves crashing against the harbour wall, while lounging beneath high-thread-count bedding and sipping a hot Teapigs cuppa, the sea and harbour-view rooms are a must.

While away the day in the village, where you’ll find a treasure trove of galleries, craft shops, antiques emporiums, jewellery stores, delis, creameries, coffee shops and many more independent finds.

Back at the Pier House, sink an aperitif in the bar area or cosy snug before moving to the restaurant for a feast of seasonal dishes. Decked in coastal artwork with a stormy mural backdrop and a boat hanging from the ceiling, the restaurant contains plenty of seafaring curiosities to draw the eye. However, it’s the food that really captures the attention.

Reference the oceanside location with piscatorial pleasures such as dressed crab with salad, wasabi, baguette and fries, or pan-fried whole lemon sole with beurre noisette, handpicked crab, and dill and saffron-turned potatoes. Inland treats come in the form of honey-glazed pork belly with sage mousseline, roasted carrots and star anise.

After fuelling up with a full English, poachies on sourdough with avocado and sundried tomato smash, or a fruity pancake stack with greek yogurt, head out for a blast of crisp Cornish air and a jaunt along the South West Coast Path, which you can join from outside the hotel.

Facing the ocean, head left towards Carlyon Bay (a mile and a half away), pausing to enjoy the sea view from the National Coastwatch Institution’s lookout station, then dip down onto the sandy beach upon reaching your destination.

Alternatively, turn right and the path takes you 1.3 miles to Porthpean Beach. Along the way, take in the sights of Polmear Island and the ruins of Crinnis Cliff Battery, built in 1793 to protect Charlestown from French invaders.

If the weather dictates more of an indoors sort of morning, visit the Shipwreck Treasure Museum in Charlestown. The museum houses exhibitions alongside 8,000 salvaged artefacts that tell tales of peril and adventures on the high seas.

At lunchtime, head to another of the village’s exciting new reopenings. Harbour Beer House (formerly the Harbourside Inn) has reopened as a collaboration between Cornwall’s Harbour Brewing Co. and St Austell Brewery. The venue, like the Pier House, also suffered damage from the fire and has been given a modern makeover befitting its funky craft-beer-and-pizza offering.

Order from a daily-rotating specials board, but keep your fingers crossed that the Black’n’Blue will be on the menu: pulled beef brisket, Cornish blue cheese, caramelised onion chutney, mozzarella and rocket make a cracking combination. Veggies, meanwhile, will love the pizza topping mash-up of ricotta, roasted red peppers, roquito pearls, basil, parmesan, mozzarella and hot honey.

Beyond the pizza, a big part of Harbour Beer House’s appeal is its craft brews. The ever-changing choice of beers on the taps are a mix of creations from Harbour Beer Co. and St Austell Brewery – including the latest Cask Club brews. So whether you prefer a super hoppy NZ-style pale ale or a chocolatey stout you’ll find interesting drinks to suit your tastes.

There’s also a takeout fridge showcasing cans from indie breweries across the region. Grab a couple and stroll to the beach to sip while watching the surf – or take them home to crack open when you need a reminder of your adventures in Charlestown.